BEGONIAS may be divided into two great classes: those that are grown for their leaves, and those that are grown for their flowers. The last-named section may be divided into those that are deciduous, and flower in summer; and those that are evergreen, and flower at all seasons. The summer-flowering kinds may be properly spoken of as familiar flowers, but they are somewhat new to our gardens, and have probably not yet attained to the fulness of their fame.

The introduction of Begonia Boliviensis, B. rosoeflora, B. Pearcei, and some few others, was in the nature of a floral surprise to the British public. Their very distinct and fine characters and their comparative hardiness were recommendations of the highest importance to cultivators. There was a cry for more, and more were found; and the florists, in the frenzy of a new fascination, went to work and created new begonias by the score, and were not content with single flowers of all colours, but resolved to have them double, and were soon gratified by complete success. There are ninety-six varieties entered in Messrs. Veitch and Son's catalogue for the year 1880, and another fifty might be found in other catalogues of London houses, and another hundred probably in those of Continental firms; so we may declare that, in round numbers, there are about two hundred named varieties of flowering begonias in cultivation.

All the begonias require a light, mellow, rich soil. A very suitable mixture for the flowering section, when grown in pots, may be prepared by mixing together equal quantities of turfy yellow loam, old rotten hotbed manure, and well-rotted and sifted leaf-mould. If it is not somewhat granular and kindly in texture, silver-sand must be added; but often the loam and leaf-mould contain as much grit as is needful. We will suppose that you begin the cultivation in the month of May. The plants will then be small, and without flowers. At the end of the month, and thenceforward to the middle of June, during warm, dull weather if possible, they may be planted out. An open, sunny, sheltered position is desirable. Any amount of sunshine they can endure, but wind and rain are unfavourable conditions. In preparing the bed there need be no elaborate arrangements. A good garden soil, well broken up and enriched with a liberal addition of mellow manure, will answer perfectly; and as regards after-management, there is almost nothing to do beyond keeping the bed clear of weeds, and giving the plants an occasional good soaking of water during very dry weather. Such aids as sticks and ties they ought not to need; but if you happen to plant tall-growing sorts, they must be supported in good time, or sudden gusts of wind may snap their succulent stems. When the beauty of the bloom is past, the roots may be dug up, and stored away in sand on a shelf in the greenhouse, or any other place where they will be safe against frost, and they should be a little damp, or at least not utterly dry. In February or March the tubers may be planted either in pots or boxes, and placed in a temperature of about 50 degree, to begin a new growth. The pots or boxes should be nearly filled with potsherds, for if the tubers are put in any depth of soil beyond about three inches they will be in danger. A compost such as is recommended above will suit them, but a better compost, both for starting tubers and cuttings and seeds, will be one consisting of equal parts turfy loam, leaf-mould, and sharp sand, with no manure at all. If a large stock is needed, the first shoots may be snapped off when an inch or more in length, and struck as cuttings in a temperature of 60 degree in a somewhat close frame. When the cuttings are rooted they must have more and more light and air, and must soon be potted off singly in thumb-pots, after which the management will be the same as with any other bedding plants.

To raise these begonias from seed, boxes or pots should be provided with plenty of potsherds, and only two or three inches of sandy soil, containing much leaf-mould or peat. The seed is as fine as snuff, and must be sprinkled with great care, to spread it evenly over as large a space as possible. The month of March is the best time to sow the seed, but a fair growth may be obtained in a good season by sowing in April or May. When the seedling plants are large enough they must be pricked out, and when they have made a new growth they must be potted into thumbs.

The raising of new varieties may be accomplished by the simple process of growing a few of the very best sorts, keeping them in an airy greenhouse, and saving all the seed they produce. But the prudent way is to fertilise them artificially, in which case all male flowers should be removed in the bud from the plants selected for seed-bearing, but the female flowers need not be removed.

The beginner in begonia culture will be inclined to ask, "How shall I distinguish the males from the females?" There is nothing easier. You know how different are the flowers of a pumpkin or a cucumber--one produces golden pollen, but has no fruit at its base; the other produces no pollen, but there is the fruit complete, though small, attached to the base of the flower, and distinguishable in the very earliest stage while the flower-bud is yet but a mite of a thing. It is just the same with the begonia. Usually the flowers appear in threes, two gentlemen with a lady between them. But this is no matter. The female flower has a triangular fruit or seed-pod at the base, and the male flower has nothing.